"Breaking the Ice" is dedicated to reaching the top of a previously
unclimbed mountain and naming it. It is also an experiment to see how
former enemies work together in extreme cir***stances.
If you are not familiar with this expedition, you can view the
Guardian (UK) presentation:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/flash/0,5860,1080359,00.html
You can also check out the groups web site at:
http://www.breaking-the-ice.DE
For stunning images check out the Gallery
http://www.breaking-the-ice.de/t_gallery.htm
To follow the exploits of this group, you can read the logs online:
http://www.breaking-the-ice.de/WebLog/b2/index.php
Here are the entries from yesterday's log:
===
Hovgaard Island, Antarctica (65° S -- 64° W)
The scenery is so beautiful and, in these coastal waters, the sailing has
become so smooth that, at moments, this seems more like a vacation than an
expedition.
We have settled into a comfortable routine: sailing during the day,
anchoring at night (a relative term, since it never gets dark this time of
year at this southern latitude), preparing dinner, then spending more time
on deck absorbing the atmosphere of the Antarctic summer.
There's plenty of time for conversation and no lack of it. The subjects
range from politics to family matters - children, professions, health and
lifestyles. "You see," says Palestinian team member Suleiman al-Khatib,
"we're not that different from one another. All of us have the same
problems and we share the same desires. This is why I think that we can
learn to live together, side by side."
On this morning there's excitement in the air. On Hovgaard Island the
members of Breaking the Ice are about to climb their first mountain. This
will be a training session meant to help develop the skills required for
the final trek to an unclimbed peak on the mainland of the Antarctic
Peninsula.
First, there's equipment to prepare: plastic climbing boots, snowshoes,
gaiters, ski poles, ice axes, climbing harnesses, carabineer clips, ropes,
thermoses and backpacks. Then, there's clothing to put on: thermal
underwear, fleece ****rts, balaclavas, fleece hats, gloves and more gloves,
windproof trousers and jackets, sungl***** and goggles.
After all the equipment is ready it's time to smear on large quantities of
sun block. In these latitudes, even when clouds hide the sun dangerous
amounts of ultraviolet radiation reach the earth. Even those with the
darkest complexions, like Israeli Yarden Fanta, who was born in Ethiopia
and Palestinian Nasser Quass, whose father came to Jerusalem from Chad,
have to take care not to get burnt.
Finally, there are cameras to prepare -- many, many cameras. Digital and
film cameras and video cameras. Cheap cameras and expensive cameras.
Everyone has a camera -- and some have two. Nary a moment of their time
together with go undo***ented, much to the frustration of the expedition's
mountain guides who believe that frequent stops for photo op****tunities
destroy the pace of the climb and tire the climbers.
Getting everything and everyone ready to go - and double-checking to make
sure nothing's been forgotten -- is a time consuming matter. There are no
quick moves on any expedition. Proper preparation is essential for success
and safety. But on this morning, just as the team is ready to set off for
the mountain the weather turns bad, with temperatures dropping and
horizontal rain pelting against us. "It's not a good idea to go out in
conditions like this," says expedition leader Doron Erel. "It's not just
unpleasant. It's also unsafe, because the frigid temperatures can turn the
snow to ice in no time at all." For the time being, the climb will have to
wait.
There's disappointment among the team members, but it's mitigated by the
thought that they can pass the time in the warmth of the boat, enjoying a
hot drink and lunch. If they face a situation like this during their trek
on the Antarctic ice, they'll have to ****ver away the hours in tents.
Just as they've accepted the idea that today's climb may be cancelled, the
weather suddenly changes for the better. Such sudden ****fts in climate are
typical of the Antarctic Region. So, about an hour after Erel puts the
climb on hold, he gives the green light. With patches of blue appearing in
the skies, they haul all their equipment into rubber dinghies and head for
shore. By the time they've clambered up the rocks and snow at the water's
edge it's absolutely sunny and warm outside and people are removing the
outer layers of clothing they put on just moments before. "I can't figure
this out," says Ziad Darwish, the Palestinian journalist. "I never know
what to wear. I feel like I'm in a sauna."
Mountain guide Nadav Khalifa explains that it's better to walk and climb
with as little clothing on as possible. "Your enemy is perspiration," he
says. "Even though it's cold outside, climbing is strenuous physical
activity and it makes you sweat. But, afterwards, when you stop exerting
yourselves, you become cold and all the moisture on your bodies turns
cold,
too. It's better to put on more clothes only when you need them." He also
reminds us that people tend not to feel thirsty in cold weather. "You've
got to drink as much as you can because there's a real danger of
dehydration here."
Before beginning their ascent of the mountain, the team splits into three
groups, each with a mountain guide, and they are roped together at
intervals of about four meters. "I want you all to keep the ropes almost
taut between you," Doron Erel instructs them. "This is for your own
safety.
The snow looks harmless, but it hides crev***** that can be several meters
wide and dozens of meters deep. If one of us falls into a crevasse it's
going to be up to all the rest of us to stop their fall. What you have to
do is anchor yourselves by digging your ski poles and ice axes into the
snow. After we do that we'll figure out how to solve the problem."
At the sound of this warning, there's a ripple of anxiety among the
expedition members. Olfat Haider, the Israeli Arab, is still nursing a bad
bruise she receiving on board during a storm several days ago and hoping
she'll be equal to the effort ahead. "It still hurts," she says, "but I
think I can make it. I really want to do this. It's im****tant to reach the
top."
While the mountain guides refer to it as a 'recreational walk', reaching
the top of this 380-meter high dome-shaped mountain will be an im****tant
test for all the expedition members (with the exception of Doron Erel, who
has climbed to the summit of Mt. Everest). It's not merely a test of their
physical abilities. It's a matter of principle. Climbing the mountain is
meant to send a message - to show the world that when they work together
as
a team Palestinians and Israelis can reach their objectives.
The climbers move ahead, slowly and steadily, stopping occasionally for a
brief rest and a drink of coffee, tea or water. And then they move again,
s****ing steadily up the slope, their snowshoes and ski poles crunching
through frozen surface of the snow. As they ascend they gain a new
perspective on the sea and icebergs below. The vastness of the view is
breathtaking, with more and more of this frozen world coming into view - a
world of mountains, sea and icebergs. "I just can't get over how beautiful
it is," says Avihu Shoshani, the Israeli lawyer. "I've never seen anything
like it and I want to remember every single moment. But I'm afraid I'll
never be able to make anyone understand just how wonderful it is."
About two hours after setting off, the members of the Breaking the Ice
peace expedition reach their first summit. They raise their arms in
exaltation. In Hebrew, Arabic and French they wish one another, "Happy
Summit!" Skip Novak rewards the climbers with pieces of chocolate while,
off to the side, Nasser Quass kneels in the fresh snow, chanting prayers
to
Allah.
By professional standards it's really no more than a hill. But, for these
newcomers to the world of alpine s****t this is a real mountain. For them,
standing here, together, is a genuine source of pride and an im****tant
step
towards climbing the real mountain just days from now.
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